How to Reduce Window Drafts in an Apartment

Last updated: November 2026 · About a 11-minute read

If you’ve ever sat near a window and felt cold air slide across your arms, you know how much a drafty window can spoil a room. The good news is that you can learn how to stop window drafts in an apartment without drilling, painting, or putting your security deposit at risk. The plan is simple: find where the air is getting in, seal the moving parts with removable weatherstripping, add an insulating layer over the glass, and use curtains to hold in the warmth at night.

Everything below is designed to come off cleanly when you move out, which is why it is the renter-friendly route. Leases differ, though, so skim yours before you start. Set aside about 30 minutes to find your leaks and an afternoon to fix them.

Window insulation film applied to an apartment window.

Why windows feel drafty (it’s not always a leak)

Three different things can make a window feel cold, and each needs a slightly different fix.

Air leaks. Gaps where the sash meets the frame, worn seals, cracked trim, and loose locks let outdoor air move in. You can feel this one as moving air.

Cold glass. Older and single-pane glass gets cold on its inside surface. It chills the air next to it, and anyone sitting close, even when no air is moving.

Sinking cold air. Air cooled by the glass sinks and pools near the floor, which is why drafts often seem to hit your ankles.

Sealing fixes the first problem. Insulating the glass and using curtains help with the second and third. Most drafty windows have a bit of all three, so the best results come from combining methods.

One note on materials: the U.S. Department of Energy explains that weatherstripping is the right choice for parts that move, such as windows you can open, while caulk is meant for stationary gaps. Caulk is permanent, so as a renter you will mostly use removable weatherstripping and other removable products, and ask your landlord before using anything that can’t be undone.

Before you start: check your lease

A useful rule of thumb: if it peels off, pulls down, or hangs from a tension rod, it is usually renter-safe. If it needs nails, screws, permanent adhesive, or paint, ask first.

Read your lease for clauses about alterations, adhesives, and window coverings.
Take photos of each window now. They help protect you at move-out.
Test any adhesive on a small, hidden spot before using it somewhere visible.
Keep the packaging instructions so you know how each product is meant to be removed.

Utah’s Energy Efficiency Guide for Renters gives the same advice: consult your lease and talk with your landlord before making any permanent improvements. What tenants may change varies by location, so when in doubt, ask in writing.

Step 1: Find your drafts (about 30 minutes)

Do this on a cold, windy day if you can, with your heat on.

The hand test. Slowly move your palm along the edges of the sash, the frame, the corners, and the lock area. On a double-hung window, check where the two sashes meet in the middle.
The tissue test. Hold a strip of tissue or a light ribbon near the same spots. If it flutters, air is moving.
The look test. If you can see daylight around a sash or frame, air can pass through it too.
Check the lock. On many double-hung and sliding windows, fully engaging the lock pulls the sashes tighter together and can reduce leaks by itself.

Skip the candle or lighter trick you may have seen online. Open flames near curtains are a fire risk, and the tissue test works just as well.

Sketch each window in your phone’s notes app and mark where you felt air. Our guide to finding drafts in a rental apartment covers more ways to test without damaging anything.

Step 2: Seal the gaps with removable weatherstripping

For air sealing windows, the Department of Energy recommends placing weatherstripping between the sash and the frame, and says it should not interfere with how the window operates. Two common self-adhesive types work well for renters:

Foam tape. Cheap and easy to apply, and it compresses to fill uneven gaps. It wears out faster than other types, so expect to replace it.

Rubber or vinyl strips. Usually more durable than foam, but they can be harder to fit, and self-adhesive vinyl may not stick well to metal frames.

How to apply it:

Clean the surface with a little rubbing alcohol and let it dry completely.
Measure, cut slightly long, and peel back only a few inches of the backing at a time.
Press firmly along the gap.
Close and lock the window. If you have to force it, the strip is too thick. Swap it for a thinner one.

Rope caulk for gaps you never open. Removable rope caulk is a soft, putty-like cord you press into a gap and peel out later. It is handy for windows you won’t open until spring. Read the label and test a hidden spot first, because some products can leave residue on certain finishes.

One small warning: don’t cover the little drainage slots, called weep holes, in the track of sliding windows. They let water drain out.

For more product options, see our comparison of removable weatherstripping for renters.

Step 3: Insulate the glass

Window insulation film. A kit usually includes clear plastic film and double-sided tape. You stick the tape around the frame, press the film on, and shrink it tight with a hair dryer. The sealed layer of air helps with cold glass and blocks leaks around the frame. The trade-offs: the window can’t be opened while the film is on, and the tape can lift paint or finish.

Apply it to a clean, dry surface.
Test the tape on a hidden spot first.
At move-out, peel slowly and warm the tape with a hair dryer on a low setting.

Keep a way out. If a window is your bedroom’s emergency exit or part of a fire escape route, don’t cover it with film or anything else you couldn’t clear quickly. Use curtains there instead.

Bubble wrap. The scrappy option. Lightly spray the glass with water and press bubble wrap on with the bubbles facing the glass. It holds by itself, costs very little, and peels off later. It blocks the view and some light, so it works best on small windows, bathrooms, and bedrooms. Results vary, so try it on one window first.

Want to compare more choices? See our guide to removable window insulation options and trade-offs.

Step 4: Add curtains, shades, and a draft blocker

Once the leaks are sealed, a layer of fabric helps you keep the warmth you’ve saved.

Thermal or insulated curtains. Hang them close to the window, wide enough to overlap the frame, and long enough to reach the sill or floor. Close them at night and open them on sunny days to let in free warmth. Our guide to using curtains to reduce heat loss explains how to choose and hang them.
Tension-rod options. A tension rod inside the window frame holds a lightweight curtain or shade without any screws.
A draft blocker. A rolled towel or a fabric draft snake along the bottom of a double-hung window is a fast, free fix.
Keep fabric away from heat sources. Never let curtains touch or drape over a space heater, radiator, or baseboard heater. It is a fire risk, and it blocks the heat.

A note on moisture: if you keep curtains tightly closed in a damp room, condensation can build up on the glass. Open them for a while each day, wipe the glass, and see our guide to reducing humidity in an apartment if it keeps happening.

Which method should you use?

Method	Best for	Comes off cleanly?	Watch out for
Foam or rubber weatherstripping	Gaps around windows you open	Usually; adhesive residue is possible	Strip too thick to close or lock the window
Removable rope caulk	Gaps in windows you won’t open for a while	Usually; some finishes may show residue	Test a hidden spot first
Window insulation film	Cold glass, older or single-pane windows	Yes, if you peel the tape slowly	Window can’t open; tape can lift paint
Bubble wrap	Small windows, a cheap trial	Yes	Blocks view and light
Thermal curtains	Any window, every night	Yes	Keep away from heaters; watch for condensation
Draft stopper or towel	Quick fix at the bottom of a sash	Yes	Only helps with leaks near the sill

A simple weekend plan

Saturday morning. Do the hand and tissue tests and sketch your leaks (30 minutes).

Saturday afternoon. Add weatherstripping to the windows you open, and rope caulk to the ones you don’t.

Sunday. Put film or bubble wrap on your worst windows, hang or reposition curtains, and add a draft blocker where needed.

Sealing leaks first usually gives the most noticeable comfort improvement for the effort, so start there if you only have an hour.

Mistakes to avoid

Using permanent caulk, foam sealant, nails, or screws without permission. Ask first.
Blocking locks or covering a bedroom’s only emergency exit. Safety comes before savings.
Choosing weatherstripping so thick that the window won’t close. The window should still operate normally.
Sealing off ventilation. The Department of Energy notes you should consider ventilation needs when air sealing. Keep bathroom and kitchen fans and vents working.
Using open flames to find leaks. Use a tissue instead.
Expecting a product to fix a repair problem. A rotted frame or broken glass needs a landlord, not a roll of tape.

When to talk to your landlord

Some problems are bigger than a DIY fix. Bring your landlord in when you notice:

Daylight or open gaps you can’t close
A window that won’t close or lock
A soft or rotted frame
Broken glass or fogging between the panes
Water coming in, or mold near the window
A room that stays too cold even after you’ve sealed the leaks

Document the problem first. Take dated photos, write short notes, and record the room temperature a few times a day. Our guide to documenting drafts and heating problems shows you how. Then ask in writing and keep it polite. Our guide to asking your landlord for energy-efficient upgrades and our request letter template can help you word it.

Landlord repair duties and heating requirements vary by country, state, and city. Check your lease and your local government’s tenant resources before relying on any rule, and treat this article as general information, not legal advice.

When you move out

Peel off film slowly, warming the tape with a hair dryer on low.
Remove foam strips and rope caulk, and clean any residue with mild soap and water first, since harsher cleaners can harm some finishes.
Take photos of each window after you’ve cleaned up.
Re-read your lease for any move-out requirements.

Frequently asked questions

Do drafty windows really raise heating costs? Air leaking around a window lets warm air out and cold air in, so your heating may need to run more to keep up. How much you’ll save depends on your building and heating system, so be cautious about any big percentage promises.

Is window insulation film worth it for renters? It tends to help most on older or single-pane windows that you don’t open in winter. On newer double-pane windows the extra benefit is often smaller, so weatherstripping and curtains may be the better first step.

Can I use regular caulk in a rental? Regular caulk is permanent, so ask your landlord first. Removable rope caulk is a safer renter option for gaps in windows you don’t open.

What’s the cheapest way to start? Do the hand and tissue tests, add foam weatherstripping where you find leaks, close your curtains at night, and put a rolled towel at the bottom of the sash.

Will sealing my windows cause mold? Sealing can reduce airflow and let damp air linger. Use your bathroom and kitchen fans, wipe condensation off the glass, and watch for moisture around frames. If you see mold, tell your landlord.

The bottom line

You don’t need to replace your windows to feel the difference. Find your leaks, seal the moving parts with removable weatherstripping, add an insulating layer over the glass, and close good curtains at night. Do it in a weekend, keep everything removable, and keep an eye on safety and moisture. If a problem is too big for tape and fabric, document it and ask your landlord.

For your next step, read our guide to preparing a rental apartment for winter, or head back to our main energy-saving tips for renters.

Sources

U.S. Department of Energy, Energy Saver: Weatherstripping, https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/air-sealing-your-home/weatherstripping
U.S. Department of Energy, Energy Saver tips for everyone, including renters, https://www.energy.gov/save
Utah Office of Energy Development, Energy Efficiency Guide for Renters, https://energy.utah.gov/wp-content/uploads/Energy-Efficiency-Guide-for-Renters.pdf

How to Stop Window Drafts in an Apartment (Renter-Safe)